Monday, June 25, 2007

Surf Lesson(s)

I went surfing with Jason Saturday. Photo was when he was in the shallow area taking his dog surfing (whom did better than I). We drove near half this island for a good spot. Me, "good spot? Let's try a wave pool." I got pumpled. Brutilized and had a couple waves of mother nature slamming and pulling me down showing me whose boss. I didn't stand up. I was just releaved to catch on enough to be laying on my board riding a wave instead of being thrown. One time I was slam dunked which felt like 8 feet only to come up to a wave smacking me down harder. I also ended like five wave layers out even tho I was paddling like mad to come in, thinking, "great where's my gu if I get lost out to sea?"

Jason starts yelling "hey come here. Come by me. " I was thinking "he is kidding right? does he really think I'm not trying to get to him? All I want to do is be close I'm scared out here. The waves were even bigger out there.

Then today I went out with Susie. I got up. We were in iddy biddy waves and she was more of the hands on approach. I had fun both times. No fear today. Saturday was fun but a little shaken. I am going again tomorrow. Hopefully something in between. I will post a picture of Susie. Her friend took pictures. Need to get them.

Friday I ran from Alix's to the Four Seasons. Best check point I have ever seen. The bell boy was like welcome back. Handed me an iced towel and bottle water. I went and changed into a bikini and hung out there all day. When I was running up the hills instead of "I think I can. I think I can. 'It was Four Seasons. Four Seasons'."

I'm going to stay there my last two nights, whenever that will be.

1 comment:

DARTvg said...

Getting stale RP...breathe some life back into this thing